Weeks 1–3 · The site
Sun hours, drainage and where the bed should actually go.
Four programs of 6 to 16 weeks, timed to your growing season and your local frost dates.
New gardeners plant too much, too close, and water too little but too often. We start with one bed sized to what you'll maintain, choose crops suited to your climate and your patience, and set a watering routine that goes deep twice a week instead of a daily sprinkle.
Sun hours, drainage and where the bed should actually go.
Bed construction, filling it, and what soil to buy.
Sowing and transplanting on your local dates.
Watering, feeding and picking at the right time.
Getting a real test rather than guessing from leaf color.
Compost, mulch and stopping the tilling habit.
What to add, when, and reading the label properly.
Cover crops and building soil over seasons.
Most disappointing harvests are soil problems wearing a disguise. We start with a proper test — usually through your county extension service, which is cheap and accurate — then fix structure with compost and mulch, and feed only where a test says it's needed.
A well-planned small garden beats a large chaotic one. We build a calendar from your frost dates, stagger sowings so harvests spread out, and plan rotation so the same family isn't in the same bed every year.
Local frost dates and what that means for each crop.
Sowing in waves for a continuous harvest.
Planting at mature spacing, even when it looks empty.
A simple four-bed rotation you'll actually follow.
Leaves, stems, soil and time of day — what to photograph.
The dozen problems that account for most garden trouble.
Spacing, airflow and watering that avoid the problem next year.
Yellow leaves have a dozen causes and most sprays treat none of them. We diagnose from photographs, work through the likely causes, and start with the least drastic response. Anything you do apply must follow its label and your local rules — we'll say so every time.
Twenty minutes on your space, your climate and what's realistic this season. Free.